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If the spring of 1996 Tricia and I took a trip to a tropic island called Antigua.
The first morning we were there we went and listened to an introduction to the
island. Tricia and I have never been ones to follow the crowd or do touristy things
when we go somewhere, but we went anyway to see what the Island had to offer. As
the presentation went on Tricia and I sat in the back talking softly about things we might
want to do. I'm not sure why but we tend to draw a crowd and after the presentation
was over we had people asking us questions. It's funny sometimes that people aren't
willing to try something. Not that we mind, Tricia and I like fun groups anyway,
especially taking people to do something they have never done before. Anyway, we
decided one of things we wanted to do was go horse back riding on a beach. We signed
up with a stable (I use the term loosely and you'll see why as we continue) for the next
day. A married couple and another couple of friends asked if they could join us. The
stable was to pick us up the next day out in front of the hotel for a afternoon horse ride
on the beach. We hung around with our new friends the rest of that day and had a
great time exploring the hotel, laying on the beach, and dinner.
The next day we all met down in front of the hotel at the designated time and shortly
there after a nice Mini Van shows up with "something stables" written on it.
It wasn't ours but we all got a little more excited with anticipation. We
waited around talking and before long a guy shows up in torn jeans, dirty ripped T-shirt,
and no shoes. He's calling our name. (I should of worried about here, but we're
adventurous remember) We follow him out into the parking lot and he points us to a
very decrepit and old Datsun pickup truck. Actually to even call it a truck is high praise
for this wreck and it deserves a little more description. I'd guess it to be about a
1985 Datsun pickup. The interior was gutted, the dashboard was missing and gauges
hung from wires, there were no door panels and no side windows could be seen. The
seats were a couple of pillows sitting on the wire frame of the original seat. (We later
found out he walked in to get us because the hotel wouldn't let them drive this POS up to
the hotel.) My suspicions were again raised, but hey we're adventurous remember?
You won't find us out on some bus tour! The 6 of us manage to crowd onto
little benches stuck in the bed and off we went.
As we drove I remember watching the edges of the Island disappear as we headed deeper
into the interior of the Island. I suppose now would be a good time to talk about a
typical Caribbean Island. The majority of them are dirt poor. Some hotel
resort chain comes in, buys up a piece of land, puts up a fancy hotel, hires locals for
next to nothing, and reaps the benefits. The Islands themselves remain poor with
substandard living. Antigua is no exception. Outside of the resort, for the
most part, it looks like a dump. We drove past schools with dirt floors and no
windows, shacks that you could kick over, and trash all over the place.
I keep expecting to pull through a big gate and into a huge stable. It never
happen and we eventually stopped on a little back road in the middle of nowhere. The
horses are tied there along with a small group of kids. We hop out of the truck and I'm
trying to be upbeat but in reality I was at this point even a little fearful of our
lives. One of the kids is even carrying a machete. The horses look very poorly
cared for and I find myself choosing my words carefully as we talk to this group.
They explain that there is a short ride to get to the beach, then we will ride on two
separate beaches. The POS truck will pick us up at the second beach. One of
the kids (no more then maybe 12) is going to be our guide. We work out who will ride
what horse. Tricia and I take the two wildest horses, as both of us have ridden a
number of times. At this point, I'm at least a little more confident we're not gonna
be robbed or killed.
We mount up and head off, single file, through what I suppose they would call a
neighbor hood. Looked more like a temporary tent city to me. We rode on dirt
roads, through peoples yards, ducking under overhangs of some of these shakes. Dogs,
goats, chickens, and cows running all about with us. I figure it's an Island, given
enough time we're going to hit a coastline.
The first event of the ride began when one of the girls (Kathy) horse decided it was
horny. Every cow/goat/dog/tree that we went by it wanted a piece of. At one
point it actually got it's front legs up on the back of a cow we wandered by. The
guide/kid comes back and gives her a little stick and tells her to whack him with it if he
does it again. My horse always wants to run, I'm forever holding it back and when it
does run everyone else's horse goes to a gallop to keep up. Well for the people that
had never been on a horse a gallop is not fun.
The houses/shacks/tents start thinning out as we go along and pretty soon we are on a
muddy dirt road that is raised with both sides about 5 ft lower and sortof looking like
rice fields, without the rice. It looked kind of strange and I can remember trying
to decide if the fields were solid or fluid. Then the smell hit us and I no longer
needed to wonder, we were ridding through the Islands septic fields. Trust me when I
say Antigua does not have an EPA. Even the horses wanted to run, but running kicked
up mud (or was it mud) from the road. We all complained but the guide/kid seemed
oblivious, this was natural to him, and he said we would be out in a few minutes. A
long long few minutes later the smell somewhat diminished. The fields were gone and
the road dry. A new smell replaced the old one. Now the air was heavy with the
smell of oil. A look around and you could see the Islands Electric power plant off
to the right. A look down and you can see small streams of oil running along both
sides of the road. Again, the EPA obviously doesn't exist here. I look around
to check on the crew we are with and people looked discussed. I think they hate me.
Kathy is towards the back and her horse has found a goat that it thinks would make
a great Mom. Kathy is lightly hitting it with her stick saying "stop it"
"stop it" You had to be there but at least this scene of humor made
us forget where we were for a few minutes.
Finally I think I can see the edge of the Island and within a few miles we cross a road
and head out onto a beach. HEAVEN, I think - It's a beautiful beach - things
are looking up! Wrong!!! My horse is even more intent on running and everyone else's
horse heads for the water. Tricia, the guide, and I all hold our horses, but for
everyone else without any ridding experience they end up in the water. Worse then
the fact they head into the water, they all lay down. All 4 of the other people are
now floating in the ocean and their horses are running wildly up the beach. The
guide goes after them, he jumps down off his to grab one of them and ends up loosing both
of them. Tricia and I round up the now 5 horses and things finally settle down a
little. (apparently this is where they bring the horses to bathe) 3 of the 4
people that came with us won't get back on their horses. We lead their horses and
they walk to the next beach because the POS truck is picking us up at the next beach.
The ride back to the resort couldn't go without incident. On the way back the
driver of the truck stops by his house (or I assume it was his house and calling it a
house is again high praise) and gets into a fight with his wife/girlfriend.
Believe it or not after all that the people that went with us hung around and did stuff
with us all week. Although it was an unbelievable blundering it was way outside the
scope of anything they would have done and we all laughed about the whole thing all week.
We also got most of them to try parasailing. I'm sure they still refer
to us as "those wackos we met in Antigua".
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